The Isle of Mull is a picturesque island off the west coast of Scotland. The scenery is spectacular, the beaches are incredible, it’s an outdoor lovers dream. You’ll be forced to slow down on the island, it’s the perfect place for a road trip, or in fact, any sort of adventure. I’ve put together this travel guide full of hints and tips including what to see, where to eat and where to stay to allow you to make the most of your time on the island and feel more organised, inspired, and better prepared before visiting (it also includes some handy van life tips).
Where is the Isle of Mull?
The Isle of Mull is an island in the Inner Hebrides off Scotland’s west coast. It’s a complete paradise and is a hidden gem. It’s the second-largest island in the group, right after the more famous Skye. I’d highly recommend you visit!
How to get to Mull?
There are three different ferry routes you can take to Mull from mainland Scotland.
Oban – Craignure
Approx 45 mins
Lochaline – Fishnish
Approx 20 mins
Kilchoan – Tobermory
Approx 35 mins
The ferry journey to Mull is beautiful, it’s so scenic you almost forget that it’s a passenger ferry and begin to think you are on a tourist cruise. I highly reccomend you sit in a window, or head up to the top deck (photo below) for the best views, whilst always keeping your eyes peeled for wildlife as you sail across the sound of Mull!
On our last trip to Mull we took the ferry from Oban on mainland Scotland to Craignure and returned via Tobermory to the Ardnamurchan peninsula on the mainland of Scotland.
The staff on Calmac ferries are really helpful when it comes to boarding, don’t let the prospect of driving onto a ferry put you off!
You can buy your tickets in advance which is recommended during busier periods, however, on several occasions we have been lucky enough to turn up without a ticket and board the next ferry. (So if you’re road-tripping on a whim, don’t be completely put off!)
The journey to any Scottish island via ferry is almost certainly part of the trip, I’ve always found the food and drinks onboard the Calmac ferries to be lovely. There are plenty of comfy seats and toilets on board to ensure you have a pleasant journey.
How long to spend on Mull
You can get a good taste of the Isle of Mull in two to three days. This would give you the opportunity to explore some of its treasures, beaches and do a couple of hikes. There is so much to do on Mull however, you could visit every year and not get bored!
Explore Mull’s biggest town : Tobermory
After disembarking the ferry at Craignure we headed straight to Tobermory to begin our Hebridean adventure. The colourful town of Tobermory is lovely with its brightly painted fisherman’s cottages. Stroll along the harbour and visit the independent shops, cafes and restaurants. Tobermory has absolutely everything you could ever want from an island village.
There’s no need to panic when it comes to bringing supplies over with you, there are plenty of shops on the island and the co-op in Tobermory is also very well stocked. I would recommend you grab any supplies you need from Tobermory before heading further afield into the more remote areas of the island.
Sitting in the van, on the seafront in Tobermory admiring the view and enjoying my delicious fish and chips in the rain, was, believe it or not, a highlight of my trip! The food was so good, and the views were even better!
Vanlife Tip: Toilets and showers are available at the Tobermory harbour for a very small fee. The showers were extremely pleasant and clean when we visited and an absolute savour if you’re doing any wild camping when on Mull.
Visit Calgary Bay
Calgary Bay on the northwest coast of Mull is known for its white sandy beaches and tropical looking waters. It’s one of the most popular beaches on Mull and it’s easy to see why. The area is full of hikes of various difficulties with the opportunity to spot lots of wildlife along the way including eagles, otters, seals, deer and so much more!
The car park at Calgary bay is small, but there are some basic toilet facilities there.
We drove a bit further along the road, passed the bay up onto the cliffs where we found an incredible spot to park up and do a bit of computer work for a couple hours with breathtaking views!
Visit Port na Bà (‘Beach of the Cattle’)
Something about ‘cows on the beach’ just doesn’t sound right, but that is exactly what you can find on Mull at Port na Bà! Seeing highland cows freely roam the beach was beautiful to witness. Apparently they are on the beach as this is where they would have landed en route to market from the Small Isles.
Parking was free, alongside a peaceful jetty at Croig Harbour, where a lone fisherman was loading his boat up. The walk to Port na Bà is about a mile each way.
The water is crystal clear, with a beautiful blue hue and the beach is void of humans but full of white sand and highland cows! Paradise!
After being told by a friendly local about Langamull beach, we decided we had to visit.
To get there continue walking the coastal path from Port na Bà. Expect spectacular views over to the isle of Rum and of course, even more secluded beaches and perfect swimming spots. Keep your eyes peeled, you could spot seals, porpoise, dolphins, or like we did… sea otters!
As the walk is a bit further, you’ll probably have this spot completely to yourself!
Visit the island of Iona
The island of Iona is a place of spiritual significance, for centuries it has been a place of pilgrimage for people from all over the world. You can take the very short ferry journey over from Fionphort, but bear in mind no vehicles are allowed on board. It’s well worth the trip, it feels like stepping back in time mostly thanks to the lack of cars on the island.
The island of Iona is known for being the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland. Hike to Columba’s Bay where it is said Saint Columba first landed on the island.
If you’re visiting during summer you can visit one of the rarest habitats in the world, the Machair.
The jumping off point for Iona is Fionphort, a small village located on the southwestern tip of mull looking out to the ancient island of Iona. Despite being small there is plenty of parking and there are toilet facilities down on the harbour front near to where you buy tickets for the ferry.
There is a brilliant little shop in the village to grab any supplies you need as well as a pub serving full meals and highland cows wandering the streets!
Take the scenic route
The scenic driving route around the west coast of the island to the Ross of Mull is absolutely gorgeous!
You’ll find yourself stopping ALOT to take in the views, or take photos! It’s not a very touristy part of the island, there are plenty of highland cows, majestic waterfalls and incredible views to take in. You may spot local wildlife if you’re lucky, so keep an eye out!
The roads are single track, but don’t let this put you off, you just need to take your time. There are plenty of places to pull over to let cars pass, or stop for a break.
The Isle of Mull: a foodie paradise
where to eat on mull
The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionphort
The seafood shack down at the harbour at Fionphort was definitely my foodie highlight of Mull! The seafood there is seriously fresh, affordable and the staff are super friendly. Try the scallops, chips and curry sauce, delish!
The food scene on the Isle of Mull is fantastic, there is an emphasis on good quality local food.
The Lazy Cow Farm Shop and Cafe – Aridhglas
The Lazy Cow Farm Shop and Cafe, a family run farm shop offering local lunches. The open halloumi and avocado sandwich was very tasty and the setting very peaceful. They sell plenty of local produce so you’ll be able to re-stock! The cakes looked incredible!
Hook’d – Tobermory
A traditional fish and chip shop in Tobermory on the harbour front, specialising in local produce, including shellfish, pork and beef. They have daily specials but you can’t go wrong with a classic fish and chips! The portions are plentiful but take cash with you as they aren’t currently accepting card payments!
Cafe @ Calgary Arts – Calgary Bay
The Calgary Bay cafe is a short drive from the coast. The cafe serves freshly made food and cakes, you can also find local cheeses, milk, smoked fish and drinks for sale there, it’s the perfect place to top up your van supplies with a few local Mull ingredients.
The coffee served is delicious, along with the breakfast which made a nice change from making it in the van on our trip! On the same site as the cafe there is an art gallery which displays local artists’ work.
Mishdish Seafood Restaurant -Tobermory
Beautiful seafood platters in a friendly, non pretentious atmosphere! The restaurant specialises in seafood and oysters serving locally caught shellfish, I’d recommend booking during busier the season.
Where to stay on the Isle of Mull
Uisken Croft Camping
Uisken Croft Camping is a real gem of a find for those who are looking for a more rustic experience! If you love camping, then you’ll love it here! If you’re not camping you CAN visit this spot, and in my opinion it’s one of the nicest on the island. It’s lovely and sheltered and perfect for paddleboarding or a dip!
The campsite has a huge lawn right on the beach that you can camp on after registering at the honesty box (£5 per person, per night) up at the croft.
There are no facilities here at all, so you need to either be self contained, or be prepared to be completely off the grid.
If you’re a remote worker, or digital nomad (like me) I think it’s also useful to know that there is a phone signal from the campsite with EE, which led to this camp site becoming quite possibility the most beautiful office I’ve ever worked from.
There are eggs for sale at the campsite and picnic tables dotted about.
Western Isles Hotel, Tobermory
Perched up on a hill, the Western Isles Hotel overlooks the charming Tobermory and the sound of mull, giving you stunning views. There is a mix of rooms, from standard to deluxe, and a lot of them boast spectacular sea views. Each room is decked out in its own unique style, blending traditional decor with all the modern comforts.
As for the facilities there is free Wi-Fi and handy tea/coffee making setups in every room. It’s got everything you need for a cozy, relaxing stay!
Fidden Farm Campsite, Fidden
Fidden Farm campsite is a family friendly campsite, right on the incredible coastline of Mull and is the perfect place to stay on a road trip! There’s full toilet and shower facilities, an incredible beach and best of all, there’s no need to book (always a bonus on a road trip)
Isle Of Mull Hotel and Spa, Craignure
After all that road tripping, perhaps you want to indulge at a spa. The Isle Of Mull Hotel and Spa has incredible coastal views over to the mainland and other islands, it’s a fabulous place to re-charge. There’s an onsight swimming pool and restaurant and the rooms have recently been fully upgraded.
Wild Camping
As a final note on accommodation, wild camping in Scotland is legal and more tolerated than elsewhere in the UK. Of course consideration is key, leave no trace and don’t turn your spot into a festival looking campsite, it’s best to be discreet. There really isn’t any shortage of places to wild camp on Mull in a van, everywhere we found, we had a peaceful sleep.
I really hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to the best things to do on Mull when on a road trip.
Let me know in the comments if there is anything else you’d recommend, or if you’re planning a trip.
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